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The weather turned a bit nippy this week, which always sends me to my coat closet for my best winter outerwear. When I do get a chance to wear one of my vintage coats or vintage inspired coats, I am a happy woman!
Plus Size Long Coats. Read more about 1 s plus size fashion advice here. Coats could not have a bi-swing back, could not have more than two pockets, and had a limitation on sleeve circumference that really only eliminated exaggerated sleeve types, such as the bell shaped Dolman sleeve that was popular in the s.
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Most coats were made from wool and rayon-wool blends, and many re-purposed wool from used coats and wool blankets. Linings were made of rayon crepe or satin.
Most coats followed the same basic style with a few alternatives. They were long, coming to just below the knee, and were frequently made in herringbone, tan, grey, dark green, navy, and red, among other winter colors.
They were generally without decoration and all had large square shoulder pads. It was somewhat loose-fitting, but not over sized. It had a wide pointed collar and one or two rows of buttons down the front.
A belt about two inches thick tied or buckled at the waist. The trench usually had two slit pockets on the sides. It had wide peak lapels with a contrasting black trim along the back neck piece.
It would come in all classic coat silhouettes as long as it had black trim. The Reefer coat was another classic coat from the 20s and 30s. It was similar to a trench coat but lacked the belt or pointed collar.
Instead, it had wide peak lapels, two buttons at the waist or single or double rows of buttons down the front, and an A-line skirt.
The waist was pulled in through expert tailoring, always showing off an hourglass silhouette. It was cut very straight and wide, in the shape of a box, and was oversized.
They hung open like in the one pictured, or buttoned closed with large, covered buttons. Box coats hung down just to the mid hip, making them good lightweight coats for fall and spring or nice evening wear when made of velvet or exotic fur.
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A long version of the box coat was the swagger style. It fit wide and boxy but came down to below the knee. This allowed extra movement and more room for clothing underneath.
In warmer weather, box and swagger coats came in lighter fabrics. Made of light wool, cotton, or rayon blends, they often came with a matching skirt, but women wore them mismatched with plain skirts, house dresses, and dressy pants.
Dottie Reid wears a summer weigh check box coat in It was to become the swing coat in the s. The collar was pointed or oversized Peter Pan collar.
This type of coat also sometimes had a fur collar, with fox or rabbit dyed to look like fox being the most popular. The fur collar would look like a small shawl draped over the top of the coat.
Fur-trimmed coats were dressier and often had cloth-covered buttons or a cloth belt.
Fur coats were worn in the same shapes as the fabric coats above. The box coat and swagger style looked best with a thick fox, sable, or seal fur.
Sleeves were wide and open and collars were high and closed with a longer hair fur piece trimming the collar. To keep with the simple and polished style, of fur coats only had two or three buttons or clasps to keep the coat closed.
Some box styles only had a single clasp at the neckline. Pockets were hidden slashes on the coat sides. Fur stoles were also used to accent winter wool coats.
They could be large round or square collars, or long wraps like a scarf. For the rich, an entire animal was worn draped across the shoulders, complete with head and feet.
New inventions during and after the war led to new treatments for waterproofing fabrics. However, most s raincoats were made of cotton Gabardine.
Hemlines rose to just below the knee their legs must have always been cold and wet and colors dulled down into drab military hues.
What is remarkable about the s is the new coat styles that emerged during the decade have stayed with us ever since. The utility coat or shop coat was a practical but not too pretty raincoat.
The trench coat was the newest style and one that is a still a classic today. The wrap coat was the most feminine design.
Read more about vintage raincoats. Brown, red, navy, black, wine, green plaids were the most common. Printed patterns on rayon or oil silk were the most rainproof.
Most umbrellas came with a C-curved or knob bakelite handle in wood tones.
Cheaper umbrellas had wood handles. While long coats were best for staying warm in dresses and looking presentable, there were also outerwear choices for casual looks.
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In fact, many women wore them interchangeably. The sports jacket was a man-tailored blazer that fell just over the hips. It had padded shoulders, notch lapels, 3 center buttons and two large front pockets.
It paired well with white blouses, skirts, and trousers. Winter varieties were made of wool in large plaid, check, or solid colors.
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Wearing a solid jacket with a plaid skirt or plaid jacket with the solid skirt was a very popular combination for most of the decade. Plaid jackets over pants, jeans, and overalls was an all too common look for teens, working Rosies, and Land Army girls.
Summer jacket varieties usually matched summer weight cotton and linen pantsuits, shorts and other casual clothes. Other casual jackets took on the shape of long overcoats but were cropped to hip level.
The box coat became a casual style when made of textured fleece or chenille. There was also the utility coat made of suede or fleece and the collarless knit jersey, which was a combination sweater and jacket.
Sweaters made excellent spring and summer jacket alternatives. Women who enjoyed outdoor snow sports like skiing or who lived in very cold and wet climates would have turned to a sports jacket for their everyday wear.
Quilted versions allowed multiple layers of warm fabric to be stitched together without much bulk. The outer fabric was made from a water and wind resistant cotton twill or gaberdine.
Heavy wool could also be used — after all, it was naturally water repellent. Bright colors were the most visible on the ski slopes, although natural tans and browns were worn too, especially at home.
Waterproof outdoor coats like these above were similar to ski jackets yet without the tight waist. They hung boxy with high collars and large flap pockets.
Some were light windbreakers, others were rugged with a sherpa, wool, or cotton flannel lining. The final outdoor casual jacket worn by women in the early s was the all-leather jacket.
Lightly lined and short, with a tapered waist or belt, they were a nice final layer over a warm sweater or knit top. They were casual yet stylish enough to be worn with skirts or trousers.
Most colors were natural medium or dark brown, but green and chamois tan were also options.
They returned again in the s in bright colors and shorter lengths. Keep learning. Read about the next wave of outerwear in the s here.
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So now that you know a bit about s coat and jacket styles, you can easily find one in a vintage, thrift or new clothing stores. Well, maybe not so easy.
I usually find great vintage coats in the s-doess category, such as this adorable pink coat I found at a vintage clothing store. I also found this herringbone fitted coat dress, also s, at a thrift store.
I get great compliments all my coats and jackets whenever I wear them. This year, box coats and trench coats with houndstooth or tweed patterns are on trend as well as fur collar wrap coats.
Here are a few I found online. More can be found here. Houndstooth Corset Coat Extra Small. Pendleton Womens The 49er Jacket. Short 40s Nicki Jacket.
Swing Jacket – Red S.
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Swing Jacket – Navy Blue S. Amazon Brand – find. Womens Check Trench Coat. Pendleton Womens Brynn Wool Blazer.
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